Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
